A two-hour boat ride from Devon’s north coast, the island of Lundy is a peaceful place empty of roads and surrounded by adventurous climbing on granite sea cliffs. Back on the mainland, Lower Sharpnose Point must be one of Britain’s most amazing pieces of rock architecture: three slightly tilted, narrow fins of rock that stretch way out into the sea and rise up to 150 feet in height. Further along the north coast is Hartland Point, where you can see how the rock of the earth’s crust folds under great pressure and Baggy Point, a collection of large sandstone slabs with fine climbing that overlooks the surf of Croyde Bay.
Inland is the wonderful granite of Dartmoor, packed with large crystals that shine in the light and dig deeply into the rubber of your climbing shoes. Hay Tor, Hound Tor, Bonehill Rocks and Combshead Tor are brilliant climbing and bouldering locations set high on a moor full of ancient history and legend, complete with The Dewerstone: a magical site of fine climbing in the valley of the River Plym. Below Dartmoor, on the south coast, you will find the top quality sport climbing spot of Anstey’s Cove and the adventurous sea cliff climbing of The Old Redoubt…
“To say it overshadows the other crags is pointless, as its shadow is plain to see… stretching plain out-of-sight across the leaden waters of the English Channel.”